As I near my 50s, these are the things I wish I knew in my 30s about SkinCare.
- Dr. Penny Lane

- Sep 27
- 6 min read
My life was always too overwhelming to invest in self-care, most especially skincare so I can't even articulate how much it means to me to be able to share with you all that I am learning during this new season in my life.
Now that I am nearing fifty though and starting to see the signs of aging in my face, or more so my neck, and I have greater capacity for investing in myself, I am excited to share what I am learning and encourage you to make space for your own anti-aging self-care. If you're younger, and want to optimize your youthfulness, this is for you too - maybe especially for you! In fact, my daughter is 8 years old and is already making skincare videos for her imaginary vlog with 9 million subscribers.

Retinol has long been that ingredient we think of for maintaining our youthfulness, but hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and peptides all play an important role in our efforts towards addressing signs of aging. When it comes to choosing products, there are medical grade skincare products that offer higher concentrations of active ingredients, and so likewise, they also offer much more profound effects. Their price is significantly higher, but I'll admit, had I utilized these products when I was younger, I imagine I might have better prioritized my skincare. My results were astonishing almost immediately and by day 8, my skin was completely transformed.
Medical-grade skincare is a luxury though, and often referred to as cosmeceuticals, as they can really address very specific dermatologic skin conditions, but over-the-counter products such as those you find at Sephora, Ultra, even Amazon are widely available and for many, a better fit their budget. Medical-grade skincare treatments are available only through authorized providers, typically dermatology offices.
According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, Americans spend over $16 billion on cosmetic procedures, including expensive skin care treatments like injectables and laser technology. It's clear Americans want to take care of their skin's appearance, but treatments and procedures performed in the office are only part of a complete skin care plan. If you're not caring for your skin before and after your cosmetic procedures, you may see your results dwindle and disappear.
Medical-Grade Skincare Products are the GOAT
These products are formulated with medical concentrations of the active ingredients, so they are more effective for treating specific skin concerns, including fine wrinkles, skin laxity, hyperpigmentation, and acne. One of my favorites is ZO SkinCare; its the one I am using, along with SkinCeuticals or Obagi. These potent products have proven they address what they claim through rigorous clinical testing.
Over-the-counter products are designed for the general public and thus contain lower concentrations of active ingredients to ensure safety, but also to meet FDA regulations for mass production. These brands might have an appealing price tag, but much like buying a knock-off lululemon sweatshirt that falls apart after a single wash, you really do get what you pay for.
Medical-grade skincare products just hit differently. They're formulated to penetrate deeper into the skin so they deliver active ingredients where they're most needed. Our over-the-counter products more often stay on the surface, much more superficially, which limits their effectiveness.
While yes, over-the-counter or big box beauty stores do offer products at a lower price, when these aren't working effectively, this doesn't necessarily equate to saving money. Medical-grade products offer better value not just because they are effective, but also because they have longevity. You won't need as much product to get really impressive results.
Skin Care Consultations
There are a number of skincare influencers on social media. James Charles has nearly 40 million followers and Ja'mies Mum is nearing a million followers offering skincare tips into her senior years. One of my favorites is CyrusVeyssi. They do have perfect skin. My daughter has been watching little ones her own age as well, and I am loving these algorithms, but expert consultations do offer personalized skincare regimens with recommend products tailored to your exact skin's needs. This may be very different from your mother's, your best friend, and even the instagram model you hate-follow.
Admittedly, I think too that just getting started is the most intimidating step, so utilizing a skincare consult with an expert gets you started and then you can continue to tweak as your knowledge grows, as well as your confidence. Skincare is not a one-size-fits-all however. Consultations with a trained and trusted medical aesthetician or an aesthetic clinician can really help you understand your skin type and address specific dermatologic concerns. Not only that, but we can prescribe products that you can't purchase, such as more concentrated tretinoin. Skincare is healthcare and consulting an expert in the science can really help you optimize your approach, and your outcomes.
Various SkinCare Ingredients
There are a wide variety of ingredients in medical grade products, all of which are the responsibility of your SkinCare clinician to understand and recommend. Their intentions are often unique from one another, whether they cleanse, tone, moisturize, protect from the sun, offer elasticity, brighten, or rejuvenate.
Retinol is a fairly familiar ingredient in skincare products and for good reason; it helps in the production of skin cells, which optimizes repair, clears pores, regulates our oil glands, and enhances youthfulness. Salicylic acid, another familiar ingredient, helps the skin shed dead cells, revealing a fresh, new layer of skin beneath. This ingredient also helps to clear pores, treating acne, and fighting the many signs of aging.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) helps also to promote skin turnover, but when used over longer periods of time, this particular ingredient can reduce the appearance of discoloration and dark spots, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) are similar to AHAs in that they help to exfoliate the skin, revealing a newer, brighter skin underneath. This ingredient fights off many skin complaints, from hyperpigmentation and acne, to wrinkles, fine lines, and even bags.
Ferulic acid is an ingredient that acts as a protective barrier on the skin, helping to slow the development of fine lines and wrinkles. This ingredient boosts other antioxidants and helps the skin appear firmer and more youthful. Vitamin C as well, another common ingredient in medical-grade skincare, offers a number of benefits, including the promotion of collagen production. It is said to slow the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by helping to address oxidative stress on the DNA of your skin. It can also act like an anti-inflammatory topical to help reduce the appearance of acne and scars.
Ceramides are powerful protectors of the skin. They are fatty acids that moisturize while simultaneously keeping out detrimental pollutants, ultimately preventing damage from environmental factors such as UV light and extreme temperatures. Resveratrol fights off free radicals, preventing skin damage at the cellular level. It also helps promote antioxidants and their benefits which assist in faster healing and repair of skin damage. Natural cholesterol, as well, helps to rebuild your skin's barrier, providing a more plump, healthy skin appearance.
Glycolic acid acts as a micro-peel, revealing fresh, new layers of skin. Fine lines will be minimized, the skin will become softer, and overall the skin will look and feel smoother. Hyaluronic acid is another moisturizer, pulling hydration into the skin and holding it there. It's profoundly transformative for those with dry skin. This amazing ingredient also helps to promote healing and to increase the skin's flexibility.
Chemical Peels & MicroNeedling
Chemical peels can be done in the office for more advanced treatments, and some, can also be done at home. These remove layers of skin, of course more superficially when done at home, but this helps to reveal a new, more youthful-looking layer beneath. This helps to smooth out fine lines, reduces the appearance of pigment, wrinkles, and even diminishes scars.
Microneedling is a really great procedure for optimizing skin health. Ultimately, while there are a variety of approaches, whether performed at home or in the office, these tools have tiny needles which create superficial punctures in the skin triggering a healing process. Microneedling is really incredible for reducing scars, firming the skin, and reducing many signs of aging.
Recommending Medical Grade Skincare Brands
There are several medical grade skincare brands that are favorites of many dermatologists. These product lines have built significant trust in the industry and ultimately, have made a name for themselves by providing products that continually prove to be immensely effective. This really is one of those scenarios in which you won't believe it until you see it for yourself. I was immediately a huge fan and like I've shared, skincare hasn't been an area of self-care that intrigued me until more recently. Aging can cause you to reevaluate your routines and commitments. The more I learn, the more eager I am to share with each of you, as skin care is also healthcare.
Admittedly, while these products are pricey, a luxury, they are a very wise investment for your skin, particularly for those utilizing cosmetic treatments and procedures, but also for those who aren't, as they do offer the greatest impact. These products are also more reliable than what one can obtain in over-the-counter products, which again, makes the financial investment wise.
Some of the top brands of medical-grade products are ZO SkinHealth, Skinbetter, Revision, Skinmedica, Skinceuticals, ColoreScience, Neocutis, Obagi, Alastin, Hydrinity, One Love Organics, and Epionce. In my peri-menopause and menopause course, I speak in detail about each of these in far more detail, but let me off you a SkinCare consult so we can work together to identify how we can optimize your own skin health.


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